SINÉAD O’DWYER AW25 @ LONDON FASHION WEEK
SINÉAD O’DWYER AW25: For Autumn/Winter 2025, Sinéad O’Dwyer takes a welcome opportunity for reflection.
Chiming with the brand’s final show as a recipient of the BFC’s NEWGEN scheme, and its achievement of a place in the semi-final of the 2025 LVMH Prize, the collection takes stock of the narrative depth of the world O’Dwyer built; of the wealth of characters that have populated it over four years. Unruly teenagers, sneaking across boggy fields under the cover of night; studious yet forlorn cello players at musical summer camps; maids and nannies, bored in their bosses’ homes; secretaries, school matrons, submissives; gymnasts, dungeon masters, dancers…
This is not, however, a nostalgic ‘top hits’ replay. Rather than appear in the first degree, these myriad figures leave whispers of traces on a proposal that reads as an assured advancement of the brand’s vocabulary. Their dress codes, moods and energies distill into a collection that, while reassuringly familiar, pushes the brand into its most elevated territory yet.
Signature shirting – with its supportive internal band and bust construction, and piped trims – is updated with panelled yoke detailing and a concealed zipped closure and is expertly cut from crisp deadstock nylon in dusky black and blush pink. The fabric, with its hefty handfeel and ability to hold sculptural forms, serves as the material for one of the season’s hero pieces – a contour skimming pencil skirt that puffs out into a bubble hem at the calf.
The silhouette is reiterated across a suite of silk organza looks, including a criss-cross harnessed dress in single-layered black fabric, and a skirt in a doubled material construction – the interplay of the diaphanous black and turquoise layers result in a visual timbre that recalls the sultry lighting in a key reference image for the season – a handprinted nude shot by candlelight, found in an early issue of the iconic Visionaire magazine. The piece is complemented by an H-shaped apron harness, featuring a criss-cross neckline, a navel cut-out, and the brand’s signature zinc alloy sex toy trims.
This libidinal charge carries into the season’s leatherwork, with polished cow hide in black and oxblood becomes micro-culottes with ‘windowpane’ belts, cloche-shaped capes and cropped trench coats. The air of kink carries over into the season’s knit offering, where we see bold developments on the brand’s inimitable shibari technique – a sleeveless column dress fuses bands of shirred scarlet satin with swathed of fine cotton knit, with Amber beads chain-stitched along the joins – while the squiggle knit returns in its most lightweight iteration to date – in a blend of nylon and elastane.
Last season’s robust denim offering is developed further, with high-collared jackets, leotards with darting at the bust, and a spiral-seamed jean figuring in a vintage wash, while tailoring is consolidated as a part of Sinéad O’Dwyer’s core offering: a roomy overcoat and pleated micro-culottes feature in a burgundy cashmere wool blend – the latter piece featuring a tonal leather belt.
Throughout, looks are anchored by calf and thigh boots – created in collaboration with Grounds – that nod to traditional Irish dancing shoes. The Japanese footwear brand’s signature bubble sole fused with a squiggle knit sock and a front-lacing technology, also seen on the front panels of a sheer organza dress and pair of tailored leather trousers. Elsewhere, footwear generously sponsored by PUMA round out the looks, with Speedcat ballet flats and H-Street sneakers.
In its ensemble, the collection is a proud celebration of the characters and innovations that make up Sinéad O’Dwyer’s past – and charts the part for all those to come.
Show
Creative Direction and Design: Sinéad O’Dwyer
Styling: Ai Kamoshita
Casting: Emma Matell
Makeup: Lynski
Hair: Benjamin David supported by Bumble and Bumble
Movement Direction: Grace Nicol
Sound: Witch Trials
Words: Mahoro Seward
Communications: RAVEN
Production: Charlie Parker at Blonstein
Models
Elise @ Boundary, Jada @ Boundary, Aj Yel @ Milk Model Management, Phoebe @ Boundary, Sophia @ Wilhelmina, Rani Hawae @ Mc Barnes, Ellie Grist @ Mc Barnes, Yoorim @ Milk Model Management, Jade O’Belle, Vella @ Lumpen, Naadirah Quazi, Anna B @ Boundary, Anna Iris @ Boundary, Farah Sabra, Mesrara @ Milk Model Management, Adeng @ Linden Staub, Milkmaiden @ Lover Management, Selina @ Linden Staub, Isla @ Storm Model Management, Alex Charles @ Nevs Models, Cosima @ Milk Model Management, Martina @ Unique, Skye @ Anti Agency, Sifan @ Milk Model Management
Collection
Creative Direction and Design by Sinéad O’Dwyer
AW25 Design Assistants: Niall Kelly, Katy Clark, Felicie Sarazin
AW25 Studio Team: Julie Martins, Ava Whiting
Shoes: Runners and ballet flats from PUMA, Boots in collaboration with Grounds
Underwear: Heist and Savage X Fenty
A special thanks to
Adele, Kevin and Aoise O’Dwyer; Preben, Ellen, Lise and Ottilie Landmark;
Roy Welland and Sabine Auken, Emma Matell, Oliwia Jancerowicz, Sophie Jewes, Rose Bradshaw,
Louie Gordon, Ilana Blumberg, Ai Kamoshita, Witch Trials, Heist, Puma, Savage X Fenty, 1664 Blanc, Bumble and Bumble.
