FASHION EAST AW25 LINEUP: FASHION EAST ANNOUNCES LINE-UP FOR AUTUMN / WINTER ‘25
Talent incubator Fashion East welcomes back a full runway designer line-up for Autumn / Winter ‘25, after the powerful trio’s SS25 collections were received with huge praise and excitement. Olly Shinder, LOUTHER (formerly LOUTRE) and Nuba will return to The Truman Brewery during London Fashion Week, supported by long-standing partner Nike, on Friday 20th February at 6pm.
For his fourth and final season with Fashion East, Olly Shinder will bring his celebrated fetishistic interpretation of uniforms and traditional gender-coded aesthetics to present full menswear and womenswear offerings for the first time – first teasing a foray into womenswear on runway in Spring / Summer ‘25. Returning after a stellar debut season in September 2024, London-based LOUTHER and Nuba continue to build strong identities and visual worlds inspired by the constant juxtapositions in their London surroundings; be it LOUTHER’s exploration of the tension found between the raw and refined and the structured and fluid, or Nuba’s navigation of the journey through life with various cultural influences.
“We’re very excited about this season’s line up; all three brands are very strong-minded yet soft, and with lots to say. We’re super into them as people, and admire how their offering has naturally evolved into a modern unisex wardrobe.” – Lulu Kennedy & Raphaelle Moore
OLLY SHINDER
Olly Shinder founded his namesake brand in 2022, immediately after graduation from Central Saint Martins’ prestigious BA programme. From the outset, his work has simultaneously studied and subverted hypermasculine dress codes, reframing perceptions of archetypal garments through innovative cuts, fabric choices and painstaking attention to detail.
Based in London, his work is a product of the cultural networks that thrive at the intersection of the city’s fashion establishment, art institutions and queer night spaces. Further key touchstones for the brand include the aesthetic vernaculars of workwear and military clothing. Since his first season, Olly Shinder has been part of the brand development division of Dover Street Market Paris, Dover Street Market’s incubator for emerging fashion talent. In 2023, the brand became a Fashion East recipient, showing its first runway collection with the platform for SS24.
LOUTHER
LOUTHER, a London-based clothing brand, embodies a conscious design ethos. Its collections echo the gritty and tenacious spirit of London, blending skewed proportions, billowing silhouettes, and unexpected intricacies that define each garment. The baggy fits pay homage to founder Olympia Schiele’s formative years, drawing inspiration from thrifted and self-crafted styles cultivated during her immersion in skate culture, marking the inception of her design narrative.
Established in 2018, LOUTHER demonstrates an unwavering dedication to reimagining materials in an environmentally conscious manner. The commitment to a holistic sustainable approach shines through in utilising upcycled deadstock items to craft shirts, sweaters, pants, and jackets, resulting in entirely distinctive styles. Additionally, materials such as denim are sourced from distinguished Italian mills known for their eco-conscious production practices and use of natural organic cotton fibres. Each regenerated garment is meticulously crafted in limited quantities within London, utilising thoughtfully curated materials.
NUBA
Nuba, co-directed by Cameron Williams and Jebi Labembika, is a menswear brand defining the journey of youthful foreign bodies searching for their own nuance between heritage and cities. Growing up in South London with Afro-Caribbean and West African heritage, their experiences inform a practice of design and storytelling for those searching for a balanced identity that brings together the multitude of influences growing up in cities with their own heritage.
Nuba’s mission is to inject a youthful, reverent perspective of cultural heritage into western classical elegance; styles embodied by our mothers and fathers that, due to displacement, had to adapt to their new environment are contextualised through the sons of these mothers searching for this commonality in each other. Nuba characterises this journey of adaptation in the communities around us, and the distinction created by embracing unfinished-ness, and rejecting the need to completely exist in one culture or another.
Through primary research, photographing mothers and fathers travelling through multicultural areas of South London, we witness the context of cultural clothing forming specific instances of gracefulness and resilience when superimposed with the signs of mundane urban everyday life. With elegance and functionality, Nuba clothing characterises the journey of a youthful foreign body, traversing an exterior environment, foreign to their home language.
