[STYLE] SINÉAD O’DWYER AW24: SUPERVISOR [LFW]
AW24 sees Sinéad O’Dwyer step into the office, twisting the aesthetic codes of corporate dress. Pushing the brand’s signature techniques to ambitious new extents, shirting becomes a key focus: oversized button-down shirts in white cotton poplin and doubled black and champagne satin featured with piped bust constructions and internal support bands. Fitted shirts in stretch poplin feature an internal leotard construction for guaranteed security of wear, while high-neck leotards in the same material balance strike an ingenious balance between the sartorial vernaculars of office and shapewear. Round-toed men’s dress shoes, provided by Ecco, and a shirred satin briefcase holder round out the offering.
This season also brings Sinéad’s most ambitious tailoring offering to date. Wide-legged tailored trousers with voluminous side pleats, boleros and satin-backed waistcoats figure in deadstock khaki wool, while overcoats in black denim and maxed cotton featuring contoured seam constructions – similar to those typically found on the front of a tailored jacket – allowing for a clean-lined silhouette across an expansive range of sizes.
Taking a beloved pair of the designer’s very own jeans as a point of departure, denim serves as a material baseline for the collection. Low-waisted folded jeans and maxi skirts come with raw waistbands and long side zips, while floor-swishing maxi-culottes feature anal bead-inspired trims hanging from the designer’s signature windowpane-inspired belt motif. Micro-culottes come with slanted rara ruffles, as do this season’s playsuits, which feature the brand’s emblematic criss-cross tie motif – a sensual riff on the collection’s underpinning theme. Hybrid leotards are fused together from organic denim and stretch poplin.
This ethos of hybridity is perhaps most evident in this season’s knits, which feature some of the most innovative material combinations seen from the brand to date. Fitted boxer shorts are rendered in combinations of poplin, satin and fine cotton yarn, while shibari-inspired body harnesses with ribbed sleeves and mi-parti leggings with chain-linked Swarovski crystal beads are constructed from interlinked scrims of elasticated knit and viscose satin. In a key development for the season, the technique has been translated to the brand’s first shibari leotard – featuring ribbed sleeves and a deep V cut – and miniskirt, with sporty tank tops in squiggled tonal stripes of knit. Balaclavas and a school jumper appear in black mohair, while high-neck pullovers featuring Sinead O’Dwyer’s signature bust construction figure in candy pink and tan cotton yarn.
Show
Creative Direction and Design: Sinéad O’Dwyer | Styling: Ai Kamoshita Casting: Emma Matell | Makeup: Dan Delgado Hair: Anna Cofone | Nails: Nanaka from Haco + Sound: Witchtrials and Cosha Movement | Direction: Grace Nicol Communications: RAVEN | Production: Blonstein | Hair sponsored by Hair & Care Make-up sponsored by The Ordinary Nails sponsored by Haco + Footwear provided by Ecco
Models: Skye, Farah, Ariish, Charlie, Cosima, Bella, Maya S, Josefine, Sophia B, Alex Charles, Lottie Moss, Flo, Luca Biggs, Maty Drazek, Jade, Guia, Mahlah, Fiona Florentia, Simone Reage, Kate, Naadirah, Eva Oh, Alphonsine, Simonetta.
Collection
Creative Direction and Design: Sinéad O’Dwyer
Design Development: Niall Kelly and Katy Clark
AW24 Studio Team: Nia Tackie, Hannah Jones, Celine Asmar, Lucy Cordingley, Amelia Walker. Knitwear Development: Ilana Blumberg
A special thanks to:
Adele, Kevin, Aoise O’Dwyer, Ottilie Landmark, Roy Welland and Sabine Auken. British Fashion Council, Emma Matell, Mahoro Seward, Ai Kamoshita, Grace Nicol, Niall Kelly, Katy Clark, Ilana Blumberg, Sarah Mower, Sophie Jewes, Rose Bradshaw and the RAVEN team, Roberta Arcidiacono and MA + Group, Oliwia Jancerowicz, Chris McGuigan and Mini Title, Hadya Tuofiq, Eden Lovesee-Clark, AW24 Studio Team, Amy Llewellyn, Witch Trials, Cosha, Ben Jones and the Dormeuil Team, Haco +, Alexandre Papatheodorou and Ecco Footwear, The Ordinary, Gary Lathrope, Olivia Garden, Easydry and Hair and Care.
