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Home›Style.›LUEDER AW25 @ LONDON FASHION WEEK

LUEDER AW25 @ LONDON FASHION WEEK

By Lily Mercer
February 22, 2025
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LUEDER AW25 @ LONDON FASHION WEEK: LUEDER takes us deep into the heart of the club with the brand’s latest Autumn Winter 25 collection, ‘The Shell’.’ The collection embraces the freedom of escapism and a transformation of personal identity, with looks inspired by the characters of the night.

Presented within the context of a ‘club within a club,’ LUEDER, in collaboration with the enigmatic DJ duo Two Shell, recreates the sensory experience of the rave alongside a set design by Tom Schneider. Two Shell takes centre stage within a pulsating nucleus of sound, light, and energy, leading attendees into a hypnotic world where music, movement, and fashion merge. LUEDER dissolves the conventional boundaries between audience and performer, drawing attendees into the magnetism of the club’s energy as evolving strobe lights and shifting soundscapes create an immersive, ever-changing atmosphere. The result is a dreamlike haze where time feels fluid, and individuality gives way to collective expression. ‘The Shell’ embodies the freedom of shedding external layers—both physically and metaphorically—revealing an uninhibited, expressive self.

Autumn Winter 25 draws inspiration from 19th-century tapestry, elaborate curtains, and intricate carpet prints which camouflaged the upper class into the decadent interior of their stately homes, LUEDER reinterprets traditional aesthetics through a contemporary, dystopian lens, applying washed-out prints to engineered cotton jeans and embossed tartans on second-skin, semi-sheer Lycra introducing a new sportswear accent into the collection. An ode to the brand’s inherent design language, reinterpreting the past, through a present lens for the future.

Sustainability and innovation remain at the forefront of LUEDER’s design ethos as this season sees the brand introduce leather styles made from by-products from the meat industry, alongside sustainable fake fur made from wood pulp, introducing a bold, confident reimagining of metrosexuality, one that embraces self-expression, indulgence, and fluidity. This collection blurs the lines between masculinity and femininity, celebrating sophistication, sensuality, and the art of personal style with unapologetic elegance. A ground-breaking new trouser silhouette challenges the conventions of skinny jeans, offering adaptability through a removable overlay that transitions seamlessly between slim and straight-leg fits. This adaptable functionality reflects LUEDER’s commitment to dynamic and versatile fashion as the brand continues to push the boundaries of fashion with bold innovations and sustainable practices.

Favourites from past seasons are rejuvenated as upcycling and reworked deadstock remain at the core of the brand’s ethos and design practice. LUEDER’s staple upcycled Phantasy T-shirts are reimagined with a waterfall insert, alongside the brand’s core charcoal garment-dyed joggers with an engineered fit. The influence of medieval and folklore dress codes remains a grounding influence running throughout the collection through the construction of garments and layering of looks.

In a continued push for technological advancement, LUEDER unveils 3D-printed designs created in collaboration with an Italian team of company Stratasys 3D printed slogan prints which are the latest garment technology, reducing waste. The tactile 3D prints add to the holistic approach of the brand while adding a heightened sensory experience. Additional collaborations include BAD (bodyamplificationdevice) for innovative rubber clogs, Track7 for bold slogan pieces embracing creative imperfection, and textile artist Ben Grund, whose intricate and futuristic tapestry prints decorate staple denim and coats.

Anchored in a muted monochrome palette with dystopian and camp aesthetics, ‘The Shell’ bridges the past and future through intricate craftsmanship and contemporary social codes. The collection’s signature rose print, draws inspiration from delicate antique handkerchiefs, reinterpreted with a modern emoji rose graphic, exemplifying LUEDER’s unique ability to blend nostalgia with forward-thinking design.

As LUEDER continues to redefine fashion through historical reinterpretation and cutting-edge technology, ‘The Shell’ is a testament to the brand’s commitment to transformation and self-expression. ‘The Shell’ is not just a collection, it is an exploration and journey into the depths of identity, transformation, and the power of clothing to transcend time and space.

Photos by Josh Snaps

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Lily Mercer

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