Sylvie Millstein presents the HELLESSY Fall/Winter 2023 collection during New York Fashion Week as part of the brand’s 10-Year Anniversary celebrations...

After a three-year hiatus, HELLESSY makes a comeback to the show format during NYFW. Millstein looks back at the past decade and references signature architectural silhouettes that have shaped the brand’s aesthetic, delivering the quintessence of HELLESSY – head-turning pieces with an element of ease and timelessness.

Striking bustiers, paired with slacks or denim, are a focus of this collection, staying true to the brand’s core dress-up, dress-down separates that have been the basis of the brand’s success for a decade. Drama comes in the form of a sculpted ‘Louis’ bustier in black velvet with pearls, and a ruched ‘Meurice’ bustier falls off the shoulders delicately in either rose silk taffeta or a bicolor jacquard.

Key evening gowns include the ‘Louise’ dress in a persian blue cotton jacquard, sculpted in the shape of a shell, an elegant column ‘Annette’ dress in black satin with a carnation print, and the ‘Clementine’ dramatic coral silk taffeta gown with asymmetric ruching.

Menswear-inspired tailoring with an ultra-feminine touch has always been part of the brand’s DNA. This season, the satin black ‘Didier’ blazer is softened with a blush georgette bustle, worn with a coordinating ‘Slash’ pant with unexpected slits over the hips. The floral animal print ‘Finn’ blazer dress features a waist-accentuating silhouette paired with theatrical opera gloves, whilst the oversized ‘Dimitri’ blazer in floral cloqué is completed by a “drip effect” crystal fringe. ‘Dimitri’ is teamed with the ‘Bristol’ crepe pants featuring a ruffled georgette overlay that attaches at the waist for the modern bride.

Embellishment comes in the form of a subtle crystal constellation embroidery seen across three shirting options including the black satin ‘Alfred’ and the sand, pleated waist, ‘Harvey’.

HELLESSY has always been about working with local artisans and New York factories in the city’s famed garment district. Every stitch and seam over the past 10 years is a testament to the pattern makers, seamstresses and cutters involved in a journey which has helped shape and distinguish the HELLESSY woman.

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