Whilst Masha Popova’s subversive, much-hyped recent collections have been rooted in the early Noughties, for her autumn/winter 2024 collection – entitled GLI$TEN – she takes us on a journey through the 2010s: a period that defined her formative teenage years. Animal prints, maximalist jewellery and jeggings all feature – but everything is not quite as it seems. This isn’t a literal homage to the “It-girls” of the era: their chaotic styling is instead seen through Popova’s attitude-ridden lens – dishevelled, wet-look UGG boots and all.

Inspired by the faux reality that independent brands can face in the fledgling years of their career – “dressing celebrities, champagne parties, living in a garage” – Popova has deconstructed the flashy style touch-points of decades past. Paparazzi images, cult series Skins and The Bling Ring informed the “façade versus reality” mood of the collection – a feeling Popova draws personal parallels with as an emerging designer.

Experimental fabrications remain a focus for the label: jerseys are given the same treatment as Popova’s trademark washed-out, stitch-and-reveal denim, provided by ongoing denim innovation partner, ISKO Denim. Leopard spots and matted faux-fur textures take form as silk devore; pendants and spiky chains become contrast prints on denim maxi skirts and the designer’s signature elongated flared jeans. Gold dusting sprinkled throughout adds souped-up, almost-cliché glamour.

The gargantuan plastic beads that were a common accessory of Y2K10 celebrities are scaled up as swirling prints; splayed across sweatshirts and tees. Draped scarves and hoodie-tracksuits inspired the slouchy silhouettes seen in the offering – some of which feature neon ZHILYOVA lingerie peeking beneath – while slimline jeggings are seen with spliced cut-outs and twists.

Autumn/Winter 2024 succeeds Masha’s combined autumn/winter 2023 and spring/summer 2024 offering, which was dedicated to monster trucks. Now, she explores a different kind of fast-lane; lifting the starry veil to reveal a raw take on nostalgic fashion.

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